Trailer Jacks 101

Choosing a trailer jack seems simple enough, but making the right choice is critical. Your trailer jack is a key component of trailer operation and the wide range of options can feel overwhelming. Plus, the stakes are higher than you think - your trailer jack can make towing life infinitely easier or more difficult. Luckily, we’ve gathered all the key info in one place. Without further ado, here’s your ultimate guide to trailer jacks.

 

1. Understanding Tongue Weight
2. Measuring Tongue Weight
3. Static and Dynamic Weight Ratings
4. Types of Jacks
5. Manual Jacks
6. Electric Jacks
7. Drill-Powered Jacks
8. Choosing the Right Jack
9. Height Requirements
10. Side Wind or Top Wind
11. Installation
12. Weather Conditions
13. Accessories
14. Maintenance

 

1. Understanding Tongue Weight

The first thing you need to know is your required weight capacity, which can be broken down into three important terms: tongue weight, static capacity, and dynamic capacity.

We’ll start with tongue weight since everything else builds from there. Think of it as the weight the trailer puts on the hitch ball. Ideally, you want your tongue weight to be about 10% of the loaded trailer weight, with a range between 7% and 15% generally considered safe for towing. Keep in mind that the frame of your trailer should sit level, parallel to the ground for an appropriate tongue weight ratio.

It’s also important to understand what can happen if tongue weight is above or below the recommended range. With excessive tongue weight, you’ll have a harder time handling the vehicle itself because you’re giving the trailer too much influence on the ride. On the other hand, tongue weight that’s too low causes the driver to have less control of the trailer and experience trailer sway.

2. Measuring Tongue Weight

The easiest way to measure tongue weight is with a tongue weight scale, which is a small scale specifically for the purpose. You can also use a standard bathroom scale if you anticipate your tongue weight is low enough for your scale. With a household scale use a jack, pipe, or solid piece of wood to rest the tongue on the scale.

If you have a weight distribution system, things get a bit more complicated. You’ll have to know the tongue weight plus the weight of any equipment in the rear of your tow vehicle. Since the jack will have to support the extra weight, you might end up with a higher capacity jack than originally planned.

If you need to make small adjustments to your tongue weight, consider moving cargo in your trailer. For example, if you have a trailer with a heavy cooler at the front, you may need to move it further back in the trailer to reduce tongue weight.

3. Static and Dynamic Weight Ratings

As you search for the perfect trailer jack, it’s important to understand static and dynamic weight ratings. The static rating is the weight capacity while the jack is stationary, i.e. not moving up or down. Basically, there are no other forces working against the jack when it remains in a “static” position. On the flip side, the dynamic rating is the weight capacity while the jack is in motion - think of it as the lifting capacity. An easy analogy is to imagine the difference between holding a heavy weight at shoulder height (static capacity) and having to lift the same weight straight above your head (dynamic capacity). As a result, dynamic capacity is lower than static capacity.

You’ll also commonly see terms including lift, load, support, or maximum weight capacity. Load and support capacity generally refers to the static capacity, while lift refers to the dynamic capacity. If you’re unsure of the static or dynamic ratings, your best bet is to reach out to the manufacturer for clarification.

As you check weight ratings, keep in mind this is generally based on the tongue weight. If you’re close to the max weight rating, it’s best to play it safe and upgrade to a jack with a higher weight rating. It can be confusing looking at the ratings listed throughout the market. Some retailers or brands may indicate “Capacity” while not specifying exactly which capacity they are referring to. That information can be relayed inappropriately to other areas, so it’s important to understand the difference.

As you can see, not all the necessary information may be provided within product detail pages or shopping in person. You may need to contact the manufacturer to understand the true capacities and limitations of the jacks you are considering.

4. Types of Jacks

Three types of jacks are the most popular among recreational users - manual, electric, and drill-powered. There are also hydraulic jacks, which are commonly used on heavy-duty trailers, such as a hefty, fully loaded dump trailer. These use a hydraulic pump and are fast, reliable, and expensive. Realistically, hydraulic jacks are overkill for the vast majority of recreational towing and due to the cost, it’s difficult to justify the investment for most people. For those reasons, we’ll explain more about the other jacks below.

5. Manual Jacks

Manual jacks require the user to physically turn a handle to raise or lower the jack. This can be time-consuming and physically demanding. However, they’re simple, reliable, and usually the cheapest option. But remember that many trailer owners find themselves constantly raising and lowering their trailers, and using a manual jack can get old quickly. This includes boaters, frequent campers, and utility trailer owners. If you don’t use a jack much and appreciate a good arm workout, a manual jack could be a simple, affordable solution.

 

6. Electric Jacks

Electric and drill-powered jacks make the process easier and less taxing on the body, but there are important differences to consider. Electric jacks require a power source, such as the battery for a travel trailer. However, not all trailers have an accessible battery to connect to. In that case, you may need to buy a battery specifically for the electric trailer jack. One disadvantage of electric jacks is the potential for mechanical or electrical issues that are difficult to troubleshoot. And it’s Murphy’s Law that promises these issues will not occur in your comfortable, well-lit garage where you have the right tools and available time. Instead, these issues are bound to happen when you least expect it, in the dark, and when you’re already running late. It’ll probably be raining or bitterly cold too. Worse yet, these problems can be complicated and challenging to diagnose. Bottom line - if you choose an electric jack, make sure it has a manual crank as a backup plan.

 

7. Drill-Powered Jacks

We believe drill-powered jacks are the sweet spot for reliability, versatility, and easy operation. Plus, they’re a tremendous value, especially if you already own or plan to buy a suitable drill. Specifically, these jacks require a cordless, non-impact drill. All Trailer Valet drill-powered jacks can operate with 18-24V 1/2' chuck drills, which is pretty standard for full-sized cordless drills on the market. While this adds cost if you don’t already own one, a quality cordless drill is powerful, simple, and reliable. Plus, there’s no installation to a battery and you have a drill you can use for infinite tasks or projects. With options for both center mount and side mount jacks, Trailer Valet has drill-powered jacks with static weight capacities between 2000 and 7000 lbs, so there are options for most recreational towing needs. With the drill attachment linking your cordless drill to the jack, you can move the jack up and down as needed. Likewise, all our drill-powered jacks come with a hand crank for manual use.

 

8. Choosing the Right Jack

Make no mistake, there are a ton of options for trailer jacks, but you’ve gotta choose the right one for your situation. It’s wise to focus on basic requirements, personal preferences, and quality components providing long-term performance. Key aspects to consider are highlighted below.

9. Height Requirements

While we’ve talked about weight, let’s go over height requirements since this is easy to overlook. At a minimum, your jack has to be able to lift your trailer coupler above your hitch ball. But there will likely be times when you want to raise your trailer even higher, such as draining a boat, cleaning a utility trailer, or positioning it so rain runs off it. Jacks have various lift height capabilities and many have an extendable drop leg to provide even more height. Most manufacturers provide pictures with measurements to show lift and height capability.

10. Side Wind or Top Wind

If you choose a manual jack or one with a manual option, you’ll have to decide between a side wind or a top wind handle. Depending on the trailer, either option could have better clearance to operate the handle. A disadvantage of top wind jacks is that they’re more exposed to the elements, even though some prefer them for heavier loads. Side wind jacks are more protected from weather so the components are less at risk. Plus, side wind jacks generally feel easier and less awkward to operate.

 

11. Installation

Before you purchase a jack, you’ll have to figure out where and how you’ll mount it. Some can be welded onto the frame for ultimate strength, but we’d recommend bolting it on in case you ever need to remove it. Let’s face it - our trailer needs, interests, and budgets can change as time goes on. As a result, owning a versatile, quality jack that moves with you is a huge advantage.

Many trailers have space to mount a jack on the side of the frame near the front of the trailer, while some are suited for a center-mounted jack where the frame comes together. We offer drill-powered jacks that install on both the side of the frame and the center. Don’t forget other items you plan to carry on the trailer either, such as coolers, tool boxes, and propane tanks. These could interfere with jack operation depending on where the jack is located. Wherever you mount your jack, be sure that your mounting bracket installs firmly and that it’s rock solid.

Here we have listed out a few of the most common jack mounting styles.*

• A. Direct Weld - A jack without a mount can be directly welded onto the frame of your trailer. This provides a very strong, rigid, and stable connection, but it can also be somewhat inflexible for your application needs. Direct weld jacks are also more difficult to replace if a jack needs to be swapped due to damage or age. That said, if the ability to install is not an issue, this is a sturdy option.
• B. Attached Bracket - This is a fairly standard one. The attached bracket allows the jack to be removed if needed. If properly installed, it can be just as secure while also allowing some flexibility.
• C. Welded Pipe Mount- This bracket connects two cylinders, one on the jack and one welded to the trailer frame. It is a sturdy connection with the best of both worlds. It also allows the jack to swivel into a (horizontal) stow position for extra ground clearance while towing. Though, this option does still require a part to be welded to the trailer, which may prove inconvenient if one does not already exist.
• D. Bracket Pipe Mount - This method uses a bracket for the removable utility, but takes it a step further by also having the bracket removable from the jack. So, you can just quickly detach the jack when you like or the whole thing when needed. This option can also swivel into a horizontal stow position.
• E. Pull-Pin Swivel Bracket - This mount uses a bracket with a built in spring loaded pin. This makes these jacks particularly good for stowing your jack for towing without the fuss. It is a very convenient option that comes with the downside of not being able to remove the jack without removing it entirely with the bracket. These are also typically found on lighter capacity jacks due to the weight on the mount.
• F. Center Mount - Center mount jacks are the odd one out as, unlike the other options, this does not attach to the frame of your trailer. Instead, a center mount jack slots through an A-Frame trailer coupler that must have a jack slot built into it. This comes with as many advantages as disadvantages. It clears up the trailer frame, allows the weight distribution to be centered, rather than side-loaded, and, in my personal opinion, looks pretty good too. However, the capacity of these jacks is also limited by the build strength of the coupler it is slotted into. This can be an uncertain variable you don't want. For trailer loads 5k lbs and below, this is not a bad option if your trailer has the spot for it.

*Note: These naming conventions are not standardized. These are based on common terminology for categorization.

12. Weather Conditions

No matter where you live, weather affects anything used outside. Constant sun, rain, snow, and dust are just a few hazards. Water exposure can be problematic, especially for boat trailers that see salt water. Off-roading and overlanding also come with unique demands due to ground clearance, dust, and mud that can wreak havoc on jack parts. If you have any concerns with ground clearance, make sure you get a jack that swivels up and out of the way when not in use.

If you live in a coastal area or a climate that experiences major temperature and humidity changes, give special consideration to the components and how they’re protected. Rust makes quick work of mechanical parts, along with being an eyesore. This is why we protect our jacks with our signature wrinkle black powder coating, and our JX2-S and JX5-S with a sleeve fitting.

With electric jacks, it’s critical to protect the components inside from weather and frequent exposure so you don’t end up in a nightmare situation with a jack that won’t work. This is another advantage of drill-powered jacks - the power source (i.e. the drill) is easy to protect because it’s a completely separate unit you can move anywhere.

13. Accessories

Trailer jacks aren’t known for having a bunch of add-ons available after purchase, but there are some you shouldn’t pass up. This includes a wheel attachment and a footplate. For instance, our JX 2K and 5K jacks have the versatility to be used with the included footplate or wheel attachment for various uses. Our JX7-S has a drop leg extension to gain height quickly and efficiently.

For the price, other accessories are worth having an extra on hand. For example, it’s a great idea to keep an extra drill attachment and hand crank in your vehicle or trailer in case you lose one or forget it. Likewise, a spare parts kit including components such as extra pins, bolts, and the required tools is cheap insurance if something happens away from home. Whatever accessories or extra parts you have available, make sure they’re compatible with your jack and have the same or greater static weight capacities as the jack itself.

14. Maintenance

The required maintenance often depends on your towing needs, frequency of use, and storage. Most jacks require little maintenance, especially when the internal components are protected with a sleeve fitting. Keeping the jack clean and storing it indoors is the best recipe for long-term performance. Depending on the frequency of your use, you may also want to grease the jack occasionally. If you expose your jack to salt water, you’ll want to rinse it with fresh water after use. For long-term storage outside, consider covering the jack or removing it from the trailer. Of course, this assumes the jack is bolted on and not welded, which is another advantage of a bolt-on jack.

Your jack is incredibly important to safe, hassle-free towing and can’t be overlooked. The wrong decision not only leads to frustration and sore arms but wasted money and lost time. By going through the information here, you’ll be able to sort through the key factors and pick the ideal jack. And once you make the right decision, you’ll get a tool you can use for years to come.